Chadar Expedition 2011 - Ki Ki so so Lha Gyal Lo

There are few if any adventure treks on our planet to match the Chadar winter expedition for sheer, awe inspiring winter beauty and none to match it in terms of day to day challenge and excitement.

Zanskar and Ladakh in the winter is challenge enough as the frost smoke wreathes the Indus. The Chadar a 'veil' for the snow and ice that covers the river in winter is one of the great adventures of the world. To penetrate the Zanskar gorges in winter is a serious undertaking and Zanskaris you meet en route inevitably look at you Greet with Juley and askance, and reply 'Chadar?' with an unbelieving nod of the head; and then salute you as they go in Zanskari fashion.

The frozen Zanskar river, part of the Indus watershed, has been used by the people of Zanskar, Tibetans who settled in the Zanskar valley over 1000 years ago around Zangla and Padum  to go back and forth to communicate and trade with the outside world when the passes are locked into frozen winter silence, for centuries and still going on.

Originally this route was used to carried/trading butter, salt and other many commodities these villagers traded with the outside world. It had to be traded in winter, as it was the only time it could travel from the cool summer cellars of their houses to Leh without spoiling. Today, they go back and forth still trading with modern stuffs and sometime in modern gears, but also taking children to school or making visits to the sacred (monasteries) sites around Leh.

Meeting the Zanskaris as they travel this ancient route is just one of many high points for those who join this adventure. The abundant wildlife, and incredible scenery are more highlights - as you look up from the bottom of the Zanskar gorge and realize, yes, that is the frozen river beneath. Fish scatter from your shadow under the ice, and snow leopard tracks pattern the snow and if you are lucky then snow leopard as well.

Chadar is not just a full scale winter expedition, but a travel into the past, where we enjoy in our ultrahigh-tech winter gears, will trek side by side with locals wearing woolen Gonchas (local winter dress) and sounding the ice-snow with their stout poplar staffs to drive away the demons that lurk there.

Muntasir (Imran) called Lucky 13 team, In expedition there were many 13 lucky charms and factors Manish and Muntasir (M-13^th letter of ABCD), total 13 members…. There were lots of in and out in team and finally we had these lucky 13s.

Me, Imran, Shubbu (finally known as Tubbu), Mohan, Sathya (Fastest Man on Chadar), Sandeep, Shilpa, Vani, Raghu, Arun, Pantha, Bhavin & Snigdhaa.

22^nd Jan ..

Delhi, I reached Delhi by 12:00 with some of additional load of food, Soup packets, Pop Corn, Cheese and now I don’t remember what all were there in bags, just remember there was 4 duffels were with me and some lost moment shopping again in Delhi, I could free up myself at mid night with addition packs.

23^rd Jan..

Some additional 60-70 kgs of load (Potatoes, Tomatoes, some Chicken and many more) on 23^rd Morning we 12 were there on airport by 3:30 am to join our flight to Leh; an hour long amazing flight from Delhi to Leh passing over lower Himalaya and then a Stok range in Ladakh and finally landed on time surprisingly, with warm sunny day (-13 Degree Celsius warm), in to the past, Tashi Namgyal's 15th century capital, Leh. The cold air caught our throat and could felt the altitude. Lobsang and uncle Angchuk were waiting for us to welcome team of 12, as Bhavin was supposed to on next day morning.  We stayed at the comfortable Hotel Shynam near main bazaar; I called this place my 2^nd winter home, which has heated rooms. After a late breakfast, we had outing on a slow stroll around Leh, a little kingdom of central Asian history, with its palace dominating the old bazaar and a backdrop of snowy peaks, with Ladakhi Tandoor and local breads; lunch on the way and back to hotel for rest, yes day ended with dinner and no fall on frozen roads. 

24^th Jan..

Uncle Angchuk in early morning was knocking my door, we were out to airport to pick-up Bhavin. And soon after we back Lobsang and Norboo (Great Chadar Chef) were there on my door to make sure we have enough food and preparation for trekkers, lots of packing and meshJ.

We had full day to explore town and surrounding places. Some old places in Leh and visiting some of the most ancient forts and gompas of the Tibetan Buddhist world. A little bit of old Tibet and there is lots to explore in this wonderful town; the fort and palace, colorful gompas, the mosque, back alleys with steaming Muslim bread and tiny antique shops tucked away, colorful fruit and vegetable bazaars (available in summer). And I was busy with preparation of trek, gears, food, transport and lot more.  Yes today I had to pick-up Bhavin from Airport in early morning and he said temperature in Morning was -19 Degree Celsius, he was ready to attack on Chadar with lots of “Shunth Bombs” (dry Ginger powder bombs).

In evening we had grand dinner before we become civilized from next 14 days and it was good to know each other and some small class room training and lecture on ice and Chadar, I don’t think so anyone was in mood to listen that.

25^th Jan..

Morning I had discussing with Lobsang how we are going to start, final we decided to start little late and will walk on river for 15-30 minutes and will have camp at first camp sit, to have look and feel of Chadar.

Lobsang, Norboo and Porters team left around 9:00a.m. & we started by 10:30 in jeeps to Chilling and then Tilad Do camp, were camp lunch was waiting for us with tents ready.We had very bad descending on day one in dust and sand as road wasn’t that good and it was really bad due to some blasts in mountains for new road, thanks to BRO.

Did anyone fall on ice? I don’t think so all were okay as distance was very short to cover on ice.  Yes but all we released walking on ice is really tricky.

26^th Jan to 7^th Feb ..

These days are mix for serious fun, walking on ice, falling on ice, fighting for single tents, mattress and rock climbing and scrambling, here are some of exciting moments, anyone tried swim?

-    I had a fall in water on 2^rd day when we were crossing broken ice and as Shubbu said and took picture “tricky parts again, Manish actually slipped here and fortunate enough to pull himself up, I am sure his previous char experience helped him to withstand  the cold and make it to camp with his wet/cold feet”

-          In one of Picture Imran is Jumping on ICE why I don’t know – Thanks Shubbu.

-          Raghu Tried chilled water from river and suffered with cold and fever (why direct from river I don’t know although hot/boiled water was available all the time. I think he tried in same way what local Zanskari does.

-          Shubbu made some deal at Tsarak Do camp and we are going to get party from him for that, only he was asked “Are you alone?”

-          We were all on ICE more then 6-8 time and Arun 1.5 time, how come you can manage with 1.5 times  ?

-          I had fight with Guesthouse owner for wood and fire in Zangla he was not ready to give us dry wood and kept green wet wood for fire, but finally Arun could manage fire giving bubblegum to house owner’s wife.

-          I never knew in spite of trying hard by others to give me good house rooms in Zanskar they end up with giving me room with fewer facilities or chilled. 

-          Porridge is new definition of Cheese for smile while shooting a group picture.

-         Upon Retrun we walked a lot after Pidmo even though we had jeep upto Tsarak Do
          and blam game on each other. finally Award ? Thanks Arun for picture his 100-400mm
          lens rocked at right time. 

Click here for more information on Arun's Website and His Travelogue

-          Towards end of trek we could hear Vani’s voice.

-     We were blessed ICE and Snow GOD amazing sunny days with beautiful weather and yes we thought this is our privilege to have such weather and snow was ready to welcome us upon return after “Tsarak Do” heavy snow fall and broken Chadar were waiting for us to challenge us. We had to spend a day to get proper conditions so we can cross river without any issue. BIG thanks to Tony and team to land us finishing boot to cross river water, yes and we can’t forget Lobsang here he did great job and crossed 9 times freezing water to make sure we all are safely cross broken Chadar and some of other porters and trekkers.

The Lobsang

-    I got new ideas to add few gears in my list- Single Raft, Tubes, Fishing Boots, Boat, Big inflatable mattes, I am happy there are no ideas to have helicopter and fighter plane.

-    Finally; there was attack of Shunth bombs by Bhavin on Ganesh who met us on last day of trek and story is known to us. He could swim in Chadar of course forcefully it was.

-    Finally there was first snowman on Chadar, hard work of Bhavin and Mohan and Shubbu also claimed he work too.

-          Pantha : “I love you Manish” why ? I never understood.
-          Hello Mr. Raghu What is this ? 

-          Finally Shubbu gave me new name “ Gujju Tour Operator”

-          Finally “Ki Ki so so Lha Gyal Lo”

This for you Joel My Friend.