In Zangla .. freezing light yes Electricity was possible for 4 hours

In Zangla .. freezing light yes Electricity was possible for 4 hours (6-10 pm)

Chadar Expedition January 2012 "Lets Walk on Water"

Chadar Trek is an unusual expedition of walking on a frozen river. The Zanskar River freezes in winter, enabling walking on the ice sheet in a narrow gorge that is inaccessible in summer.
I have had several queries on the Chadar Expedition in 2012 much before we even started planning it. Finally, here is the announcement on Chadar 2012.

Please send me email on manish.lakhani@gmail.com if you wish to walk on water (ofcourse frozen) with me.

Expedition Outline:

14th Jan – Arrive Delhi
15th Jan – Fly to Leh 3500m
16th Jan – Leh 3500m
17th Jan – Drive to Chilling and trek to Tilad Do camp 3100m
18th Jan – Trek to Gyalpo camp 3170m
19th Jan – Trek to Dib Cave 3225m
20th Jan – Trek to Neraks camp 3390m
21st Jan – Trek to Dib Gongma or Sarak Do 3500m (if we get Jeep, by evening we will be in Zangla)
22nd Jan - Rest Day in Zangla and explorer Snow Kingdom of Zangla and Zangla Fort.
23rd Jan –Trek to Pidmo or Hanumil.
24th – 30th Jan trek Back to Leh.
31st Jan – . Back to home


Day to Day Expedition Details

January 14 – Arrive Delhi:

Arrive and rest in Delhi. Briefing and getting know each other.

January 15 – Fly to Leh 3500m:

Take 6am flight to Leh, which in winter is rarely delayed. Our tour begins by watching a spectacular sunrise over snowy peaks as we cruise at a height of 30,000 feet, far above the mountains. After an hour long memorable flight over the Himalayas, we land in Tashi Namgyal’s 15th century capital, Leh. The cold air will catch your throat and you will definitely feel the altitude. We stay at the comfortable Hotel Shynam near main bazaar, which has heated rooms. After a late breakfast, we will go on a slow stroll around Leh to see a little piece of central Asian history, with its palace dominating the old bazaar with a backdrop of snowy peaks. Lunch on the way and back to hotel for rest. This is a day for acclimatization.

January 16 – Leh 3500m:

We will spend this day easy, visiting some sights nearby without straining too much. We drive through the mountainous terrain to ancient monasteries at Thiksey and Stakna and see the colourfully decorated prayer halls – a little bit of old Tibet. There is also lot to explore in this wonderful Central Asian town; the fort and palace, colorful gompas, the mosque, back alleys with steaming Muslim bread, tiny antique shops tucked away, colorful fruit and vegetable bazaars. While you explore the town, our guides will be busy with preparation of trek, gears and porters.

January 17 – Drive to Chilling and trek to Tilad Do camp 3100m:

Mornings in Leh in any season are special and different. The fresh air and the son beckons you to head out while the cold air draws you back into the heated room. Breakfast in the Shynam is your last touch of civilization. By eight, we will be on the road driving through the suburbs of Leh, then along with the Indus River.

We stop briefly at Nimu to watch the confluence of Indus and Zanskar River from a high vantage point. When the muddy Indus merges with a clear blue Zanskar River, former’s colours disappear and acquire the purity of the later. We descend into the valley and across a small bridge, now entering the valley of Zanskar. A road running parallel to the river takes us to Chilling and further, as far as the new road under construction allows us to go. It is time to hit the ice! The experience of walking on ice now begins and perhaps quickly followed by experience of falling on ice! It is a short walk on Day 1, so it gives you some time to practice and stretch. The first day’s camp is on a sandy plateau to one side of the Zanskar at the confluence of a stream with the river. On this first day our tents will be erected for guides, who will introduce you to camp routines. It is then to our warm and cozy dining tent, followed by dinner – hot soup and a good vegetarian meal. Evenings in the dining tent, which is big enough to stretch your legs but small enough to be easily warmed, are very comfortable. Before bed, as part of the daily routine, we fill your bottles with boiling water. Great to toast your toes, and drinkable in the morning.

January 18 – Trek to Gyalpo camp 3170m:

Waking up is a shock? We hope not too much! It is the most difficult part of the day, but things only get better as the day progresses. The morning cold is eased by the hot beverage that comes to your tent, and hot washing water. Breakfast call is 7.30, but your gear and tent have to be packed by then! Breakfast is as much hot coffee or tea as you can drink, eggs to order (fresh while they last, then powdered), fresh baked bread, jam and honey. Departure time is normally around 9:00, and the days soon assume a familiar pattern. Guides Lobsang leads the group of trekkers, followed by our porter team.

It is essential always to stay with our guides. The first few days are generally problem-free, but we can and will encounter times when we have to wait while Lobsang scouts the best route. We prefer to stay on the river, and you will see Zanskaris take real risks to avoid rock climbing. For this reason you must have plenty of warm layers to throw on, and of course, dry socks. The ice conditions are too varied (and insanely beautiful) to list out here, but there are one or two things to bear in mind – you will find yourself warming up and getting comfortable as you walk, enjoying the views and occasionally watching for wildlife. Look out particularly for snow leopard prints, Ibex on the gorge walls, and the crazy ‘Dipper’ birds that dive from ice into the river, turning over pebbles looking for edibles.

You will develop a sense of what is safe and unsafe ice, and learn to catch yourself if you slip. But be ready to learn as you fall in the first couple of days.

The lunchtime begins with a tea and follows with pulao or Zanskari Kiu (dumpling stew) bread, cheese, jam, biscuits or the good old instant noodles. Some days if the ice conditions are poor and we are behind schedule, we can only have hot tea and an uncooked lunch. The ice conditions change quickly and what takes an hour at noon can take three hours by 3pm. We do not rush; but we do not dawdle! If you hear Zanskaris calling down the valley, particularly at the corners, don’t worry; they are screaming to scare away the demons who lurk in the ice. By 3-4pm we should be in camp on a plateau above the river. Today we start putting up our own tents. While your guides help you with this, Lobsang gets the dining tent up, the porters gather firewood, and soon the tea is ready. Dinner will be ready by 7:00.

January 19 – Trek to Dib Cave 3225m:

This is a beautiful day when the river starts to curve and you can see the uphill slope of the ice as we ascend the river into Zanskar. We are now getting used to walking on the ice and the initial anxiety is past, but that doesn’t mean we will stop falling altogether. We pass incredible waterfalls on our left, normally frozen into aquamarine ice cliffs. The waterfall was said to have come from a river given to local people who visited Tibet centuries ago to plead for water for their barren land. They were given a box which they were told they must open only on their return home. The curious Zanskaris were nearly home when one of them opened it; out jumped a tiny fish, and the river sprung from the ground high above here.

Also today we will probably have to climb briefly above the river – on the sharp bends the speed of the current breaks up the ice. Lunch is on a rocky beach by the river, and camp is near one of the many caves that are blackened by centuries of use by the fires of locals. Our porters use these caves to cook and sleep in, and many of them are slowly being turned into small huts by Zanskaris recruited by the Border Roads Organization to shelter the road workers as they come through here. This is a popular campsite and you might see some locals camping on their way to Leh or back.

Januar 20 – Trek to Neraks camp 3390m:

One more spectacular day when it comes to seeing frozen waterfalls and narrow gorges. Crags seem to leap up from the frozen river surface, and ibex can usually be seen defying gravity far above. You will see Yellow Billed Choughs making a curious whistling sound as they fly in small groups half-way up the gorge. After lunch we pass the ‘incense tree’, so called because the locals use its branches to burn in their morning rituals, and the prayer flag draped tree marks the entrance to Zanskar Region.

The porters will normally take a few twigs from the tree, then tear a small piece of prayer flag to wrap it in, and present it to you. Welcome to Real Zanskar! An hour later we turn a corner, and there, high above the river, is the bridge that links Zanskar with Ladakh, and Neraks village with Lingshed Monastery – bridge used in summer months when they can’t ford the river. Then the valley gorge opens up, and we see the small huts that mark some of the summer grazing of the Neraks villagers. The village is far above. We stay indoors today at a small river-side loghut, in a relatively warm and comfortable heated room. Don’t blame us if you don’t feel like braving the colds tomorrow to walk deeper into Zanskar. And yes, rum is possible!

January 21 – Trek to Hanumil or Sarak Do:

Another amazing day on the ice, and a long one. At the end of the day we are back in another world with some hints of civilization, where good folks from Border Roads Organization are braving the cold and building the road from Zanskar End. Tsarak Do is a cold camp with lot of wind, but do not worry; brave this night and you are back to comfortable quarters of heater room in a Zanskari House.

January 22 – Trek to Pidmo:

Today, the river climbs and curves out of the gorge, onto the start of the plains around Padum. Early in the morning here, what the early Arctic explorers call ‘frost smoke’ rises gently. It is in this stretch that we saw a Snow Leopard chase of group of Ibexes in 2011. Keep a watch on the slopes for some sightings and action. Today we will walk on wide valley, leaving the river and on the slopes. It is a much needed change in experience of walking on river surface. But you may still have to walk on ice or snow if there is snow, otherwise on good old hard ground. Once at Pidmo, we stay with villagers there who give us a warm welcome. If we are lucky to get a jeep, we will move to Zangla.

January 23 - Rest Day in Zangla:

Not a hard day if there is a trail, but in fresh snow, it may be. We don’t strain too much and take it easy, getting ready for the walk back.

January 24- 30 on the way back to chilling:

The same way back? Surprise ? Well, technically yes we are same way back. In fact the Chadar changes by the minutes and hours, and the colours and perspectives all change. And yes, it is quicker downhill. We do know that the Chadar will be as challenging on the return trip. We do know we have plenty of time for those problems, and we do know that Uncle Angchuk and his jeeps will be waiting for us when we climb stiffly off the ice, the Chadar, one of the great adventures done! And now, way back to home.

January 31. Back to home:

Farewell to tiny Himalayan kingdom
Facilities provided for this expedition:

• Airfares – Delhi to Leh and Leh to Delhi
• Hotels in Leh
• Airport transfers
• Heated Hotels in Leh
• Accommodation with local families in Zanskar
• Local departure tax
• Group transportation by private vehicle

This is an expedition-style trek with:

• Highly experienced guides
• Highly experienced and professionally equipped porters
• All meals and hot drinks; superb Asian vegetarian food
• Roomy sleeping and heated dining tent
• Four season tents, good quality sleeping bags and other critical camping gear

Facilities Not Included:

• Personal insurance
• Personal equipment rental/purchase
• Alcohol and soft drinks
• Laundry, tipping and other items of a personal nature

Important Note : The participants will be travelling at their own risk and organizers are not responsible for any unforeseen accidents.

Chadar Expedition 2011 - Ki Ki so so Lha Gyal Lo

There are few if any adventure treks on our planet to match the Chadar winter expedition for sheer, awe inspiring winter beauty and none to match it in terms of day to day challenge and excitement.

Zanskar and Ladakh in the winter is challenge enough as the frost smoke wreathes the Indus. The Chadar a 'veil' for the snow and ice that covers the river in winter is one of the great adventures of the world. To penetrate the Zanskar gorges in winter is a serious undertaking and Zanskaris you meet en route inevitably look at you Greet with Juley and askance, and reply 'Chadar?' with an unbelieving nod of the head; and then salute you as they go in Zanskari fashion.

The frozen Zanskar river, part of the Indus watershed, has been used by the people of Zanskar, Tibetans who settled in the Zanskar valley over 1000 years ago around Zangla and Padum  to go back and forth to communicate and trade with the outside world when the passes are locked into frozen winter silence, for centuries and still going on.

Originally this route was used to carried/trading butter, salt and other many commodities these villagers traded with the outside world. It had to be traded in winter, as it was the only time it could travel from the cool summer cellars of their houses to Leh without spoiling. Today, they go back and forth still trading with modern stuffs and sometime in modern gears, but also taking children to school or making visits to the sacred (monasteries) sites around Leh.

Meeting the Zanskaris as they travel this ancient route is just one of many high points for those who join this adventure. The abundant wildlife, and incredible scenery are more highlights - as you look up from the bottom of the Zanskar gorge and realize, yes, that is the frozen river beneath. Fish scatter from your shadow under the ice, and snow leopard tracks pattern the snow and if you are lucky then snow leopard as well.

Chadar is not just a full scale winter expedition, but a travel into the past, where we enjoy in our ultrahigh-tech winter gears, will trek side by side with locals wearing woolen Gonchas (local winter dress) and sounding the ice-snow with their stout poplar staffs to drive away the demons that lurk there.

Muntasir (Imran) called Lucky 13 team, In expedition there were many 13 lucky charms and factors Manish and Muntasir (M-13^th letter of ABCD), total 13 members…. There were lots of in and out in team and finally we had these lucky 13s.

Me, Imran, Shubbu (finally known as Tubbu), Mohan, Sathya (Fastest Man on Chadar), Sandeep, Shilpa, Vani, Raghu, Arun, Pantha, Bhavin & Snigdhaa.

22^nd Jan ..

Delhi, I reached Delhi by 12:00 with some of additional load of food, Soup packets, Pop Corn, Cheese and now I don’t remember what all were there in bags, just remember there was 4 duffels were with me and some lost moment shopping again in Delhi, I could free up myself at mid night with addition packs.

23^rd Jan..

Some additional 60-70 kgs of load (Potatoes, Tomatoes, some Chicken and many more) on 23^rd Morning we 12 were there on airport by 3:30 am to join our flight to Leh; an hour long amazing flight from Delhi to Leh passing over lower Himalaya and then a Stok range in Ladakh and finally landed on time surprisingly, with warm sunny day (-13 Degree Celsius warm), in to the past, Tashi Namgyal's 15th century capital, Leh. The cold air caught our throat and could felt the altitude. Lobsang and uncle Angchuk were waiting for us to welcome team of 12, as Bhavin was supposed to on next day morning.  We stayed at the comfortable Hotel Shynam near main bazaar; I called this place my 2^nd winter home, which has heated rooms. After a late breakfast, we had outing on a slow stroll around Leh, a little kingdom of central Asian history, with its palace dominating the old bazaar and a backdrop of snowy peaks, with Ladakhi Tandoor and local breads; lunch on the way and back to hotel for rest, yes day ended with dinner and no fall on frozen roads. 

24^th Jan..

Uncle Angchuk in early morning was knocking my door, we were out to airport to pick-up Bhavin. And soon after we back Lobsang and Norboo (Great Chadar Chef) were there on my door to make sure we have enough food and preparation for trekkers, lots of packing and meshJ.

We had full day to explore town and surrounding places. Some old places in Leh and visiting some of the most ancient forts and gompas of the Tibetan Buddhist world. A little bit of old Tibet and there is lots to explore in this wonderful town; the fort and palace, colorful gompas, the mosque, back alleys with steaming Muslim bread and tiny antique shops tucked away, colorful fruit and vegetable bazaars (available in summer). And I was busy with preparation of trek, gears, food, transport and lot more.  Yes today I had to pick-up Bhavin from Airport in early morning and he said temperature in Morning was -19 Degree Celsius, he was ready to attack on Chadar with lots of “Shunth Bombs” (dry Ginger powder bombs).

In evening we had grand dinner before we become civilized from next 14 days and it was good to know each other and some small class room training and lecture on ice and Chadar, I don’t think so anyone was in mood to listen that.

25^th Jan..

Morning I had discussing with Lobsang how we are going to start, final we decided to start little late and will walk on river for 15-30 minutes and will have camp at first camp sit, to have look and feel of Chadar.

Lobsang, Norboo and Porters team left around 9:00a.m. & we started by 10:30 in jeeps to Chilling and then Tilad Do camp, were camp lunch was waiting for us with tents ready.We had very bad descending on day one in dust and sand as road wasn’t that good and it was really bad due to some blasts in mountains for new road, thanks to BRO.

Did anyone fall on ice? I don’t think so all were okay as distance was very short to cover on ice.  Yes but all we released walking on ice is really tricky.

26^th Jan to 7^th Feb ..

These days are mix for serious fun, walking on ice, falling on ice, fighting for single tents, mattress and rock climbing and scrambling, here are some of exciting moments, anyone tried swim?

-    I had a fall in water on 2^rd day when we were crossing broken ice and as Shubbu said and took picture “tricky parts again, Manish actually slipped here and fortunate enough to pull himself up, I am sure his previous char experience helped him to withstand  the cold and make it to camp with his wet/cold feet”

-          In one of Picture Imran is Jumping on ICE why I don’t know – Thanks Shubbu.

-          Raghu Tried chilled water from river and suffered with cold and fever (why direct from river I don’t know although hot/boiled water was available all the time. I think he tried in same way what local Zanskari does.

-          Shubbu made some deal at Tsarak Do camp and we are going to get party from him for that, only he was asked “Are you alone?”

-          We were all on ICE more then 6-8 time and Arun 1.5 time, how come you can manage with 1.5 times  ?

-          I had fight with Guesthouse owner for wood and fire in Zangla he was not ready to give us dry wood and kept green wet wood for fire, but finally Arun could manage fire giving bubblegum to house owner’s wife.

-          I never knew in spite of trying hard by others to give me good house rooms in Zanskar they end up with giving me room with fewer facilities or chilled. 

-          Porridge is new definition of Cheese for smile while shooting a group picture.

-         Upon Retrun we walked a lot after Pidmo even though we had jeep upto Tsarak Do
          and blam game on each other. finally Award ? Thanks Arun for picture his 100-400mm
          lens rocked at right time. 

Click here for more information on Arun's Website and His Travelogue

-          Towards end of trek we could hear Vani’s voice.

-     We were blessed ICE and Snow GOD amazing sunny days with beautiful weather and yes we thought this is our privilege to have such weather and snow was ready to welcome us upon return after “Tsarak Do” heavy snow fall and broken Chadar were waiting for us to challenge us. We had to spend a day to get proper conditions so we can cross river without any issue. BIG thanks to Tony and team to land us finishing boot to cross river water, yes and we can’t forget Lobsang here he did great job and crossed 9 times freezing water to make sure we all are safely cross broken Chadar and some of other porters and trekkers.

The Lobsang

-    I got new ideas to add few gears in my list- Single Raft, Tubes, Fishing Boots, Boat, Big inflatable mattes, I am happy there are no ideas to have helicopter and fighter plane.

-    Finally; there was attack of Shunth bombs by Bhavin on Ganesh who met us on last day of trek and story is known to us. He could swim in Chadar of course forcefully it was.

-    Finally there was first snowman on Chadar, hard work of Bhavin and Mohan and Shubbu also claimed he work too.

-          Pantha : “I love you Manish” why ? I never understood.
-          Hello Mr. Raghu What is this ? 

-          Finally Shubbu gave me new name “ Gujju Tour Operator”

-          Finally “Ki Ki so so Lha Gyal Lo”

This for you Joel My Friend.

Chadar Expedition 2011 Count Down

Count Donw is started for Chadar Expedition 2011 ..
How people are enthu for new trek...
" I also wish I could just give up my investment banking/asset management job & get lost in the himalayas... completelyyy agree with your tagline" - Sravasti

More to come

Sunset Near Sarak Do

Sunset Near Sarak Do, originally uploaded by Manish :-) - Waiting for next Chadar Expedition.

Sarak Do .. One of the coldest place on Chadar Trek
Camera : Canon G10

I took total 4 pictures so create this panorama .. It is bit diffiuclt to hold camera in same position in cold temperature, it was -5 Celsius Degree at in eveing 4:00 pm .

Lovely place indeed.

Chadar Expedition 2011 - Tribute to Joel Schone - Enlightened Trekker & Friend

Expedition 2011 - Tribute to Joel Schone - Enlightened Trekker & Friend

send me email if you wish to join: manish.lakhani@gmail.com

Trek Outline
Day 1 - Arrive Delhi
2 - Fly to Leh 3500m
3 - Leh 3500m
4 - Drive to Chilling and trek to Tilad Do camp 3100m
5 - Trek to Gyalpo camp 3170m
6 - Trek to Dib Cave 3225m
7 - Trek to Neraks camp 3390m
8 - Trek to Dib Gongma or Sarak Do 3500m (if we get Jeep, by evening we will be in Zangla)
9- Rest Day in Zangla and explorer Snow Kingdom of Zangla and Zangla Fort.
10- Rest Day in Zangla and explorer Snow Kingdom of Zangla and Zangla Fort.
11 –Trek to Pidmo or Hanumil.
12- 17 trek Back to Leh.
Day 18.. Back to home Bye Bye to tiny kingdom.

Day 1 - Arrive Delhi
Arrive and rest in Delhi trek discussion and know each other.

2 - Fly to Leh 3500m
We have to be there at Airport by 4am to join our morning flight to Leh, which in winter is rarely delayed (last two years it has been canceled and we could fly after 2 days). An hour long spectacular flight over the Himalayas, we land in the past, Tashi Namgyal's 15th century capital, Leh. The cold air will catch at your throat and we will definitely feel the altitude. We stay at the comfortable Hotel Shynam near main bazaar, which has heated rooms. After a late breakfast, we will go out on a slow stroll around Leh, a little kingdom of central Asian history, with its palace dominating the old bazaar and a backdrop of snowy peaks, lunch on the way and back to hotel for rest.

3 - Leh 3500m
We have total one and half days to explore this town and surrounding places, some old places in Leh and visiting some of the most ancient forts and gompas of the Tibetan Buddhist world. A little bit of old Tibet. I am regular visitor of this place for a along time and there is lots to explore in this wonderful town; the fort and palace, colorful gompas, the mosque, back alleys with steaming Muslim bread and tiny antique shops tucked away, colorful fruit and vegetable bazaars (available in summer). And I will be busy with preparation of trek, gears and porters.

4 - Drive to Chilling and trek to Tilad Do camp 3100m
Mornings in Leh in any season are special and different, with the harsh high Himalayan light softened by the dust in the air. Breakfast in the Shynam is a last touch of civilization. By eight we will be on the road, driving through the suburbs of town, then along with the Indus River and valley. On the way where we normally stop to stretch our legs and take in the view behind. Then we drive on, descending to the Indus again to its confluence with the Zanskar. A dirt road from here takes us to Chilling, as far as the jeep can go. Now it is time to be on on the ice. It takes an hour or so to get into a comfortable rhythm, and Crampons are good but we have found that using crampons tends to be more of a hindrance, as they are not suitable for all ice conditions.. Again, as on the gear list, you must have boots with good, new soles that 'stick' I love TNF Chilkat and using them for all of my winter/Chadar trek. Luckily there are rarely any ice puzzles on this first day, except at the camp, where you ascend a frozen stream. The camp is on a sandy plateau to one side of the Zanskar, where on this first day our tents will have been erected for us. Now this is time to introduce you to camp routines and our warm and cozy dining tent, followed by dinner, soup and a good, varied vegetarian meal. Evenings in the dining tent, which is big enough to stretch your legs but small enough to be easily warmed, are very comfortable. Before bed, as part of the daily routine, we fill your bottles with boiling water. Great to toast your toes, and drinkable in the morning.

5 - Trek to Gyalpo camp 3170m
Waking, a shock? We hope not too much! The morning cold is eased by the hot beverage of your choice that comes to your tent, and hot washing water. Breakfast call is 7.30, but your gear and tent have to be packed by then! Breakfast is as much hot coffee or tea as you can drink, eggs to order (fresh while they last packed, we had to left lots of eggs last year on airport as security as not ready to take them with us) Fresh baked bread, jam and honey. Departure time is normally around 9:00, and the days soon assume a familiar pattern. Lobsang go ahead with the trekkers, followed by our porter team. It is essential always to stay with our guides. This is the only trek in the world where the trail, literally, vanishes, beneath your feet.
The first few days are generally problems free, but we can, and will, encounter times when we have to wait while we scout the best route. We prefer to stay on the river, and you will see Zanskaris take real risks to avoid rock climbing. For this reason you must have plenty of warm layers to throw on, and of course, dry socks. The ice conditions are too varied (and very beautiful) to list out here, but there are one or two things to bear in mind. You will find yourself rapidly relaxing as you walk, enjoying the views; watching for wildlife. Look out particularly for snow leopard prints, Ibex on the gorge walls, and the crazy 'Dipper' birds that dive from ice into the river, turning over pebbles looking for edibles. You will develop a sense of the safe and unsafe ice, and learn to catch yourself if you slip. Be sure to use your poles if you want to sound the ice. Your feet are unclean, and although the gods who inhabit the ice will allow you to walk, to stamp with your foot is not acceptable to them (Please you never use the ice as a toilet place).
We lunch on pilaf, or Zanskari Kiu (dumpling stew) bread, cheese, jam, biscuits. Some days we can only have hot tea and an uncooked lunch. The ice conditions change quickly and what takes an hour at noon can take three hours by 3pm. We do not rush; but we do not dawdle! If you hear Zanskaris calling down the valley, particularly at the corners, don't worry; they are screaming to scare away the demons who lurk in the ice.
Yes today we will pass through what the porters call 'Chadar Gate'. A little surprise for the trekkers.
By 3-4pm we should be in camp on a plateau above the river. Today we start putting up our own tents. While me, Tega, help you with this, Lobsang gets the dining tent up, the porters gather firewood, and soon the tea is ready. Dinner will be ready by 7:00.

6 - Trek to Dib Cave 3225m
This is a stunningly day as the river starts to curve and you can see the uphill slope of the ice as we ascend the river into Zanskar. We pass incredible waterfalls on our left, normally frozen into aquamarine ice cliffs. The waterfall was said to have come from a river given to local people who visited Tibet centuries ago to plead for water for their barren land. They were given a box which they were told they must open only on their return home. The curious Zanskaris were nearly home when one of them opened it; out jumped a tiny fish, and the river sprung from the ground high above here. Also today we will probably have to climb briefly above the river - on the sharp bends the speed of the current breaks up the ice. Lunch is on a rocky beach by the river, and camp is near one of the many caves that are blackened by centuries of use by the fires of locals. Our porters use these caves to cook and sleep in, and many of them are slowly being turned into small huts by Zanskaris recruited by the Border Roads Organization to shelter the road workers as they come through here. This is a popular campsite and you will notice one of our teams' first jobs is to dig a toilet pit and clean up the rubbish left by groups. If there is no snow here the sand that blows around can contaminate your food. We have stringent hygiene rule's for our kitchen, abundant hot water, and anti bacterial hand wash always available. Use it as and when you need.

7 - Trek to Neraks camp 3390m
One more spectacular day. Crags seem to leap up from the frozen river surface, and ibex can usually be seen defying gravity far above. After lunch we pass the 'incense tree', so called because the locals use its branches to burn in their morning rituals, and the prayer flag draped tree marks the entrance to Zanskar proper. The porters will normally take a few twigs from the tree, then tear a small piece of prayer flag to wrap it in, and present it to you. Welcome to Real Zanskar!
An hour later we turn a corner, and there, high above the river, is the bridge that links Zanskar with Ladakh, and Neraks village with Lingshed Monastery – Bridge used in summer. Then the valley gorge opens up, and we see the small huts that mark some of the summer grazing of the Neraks villagers. The village is far above. A trail is normally beaten through the snow to these huts, where we camp. And rum is possible  .. !!

8 – Trek to Hanumil or Sarak Do
Another amazing day on the ice, and a long one, but we have a warm Zanskari kitchen to look forward to tonight. The Zanskar climbs and curves out of the gorge today, onto the start of the plains around Padum. Early in the morning here, what the early Arctic explorers call 'frost smoke' rises gently. Soon on our right we can see the summer route climbing away to the Parfi La, and high on the left, the faint line that will be a road one day. The last hour or so is a true ice puzzle for us, as we need to cross the river at a wide and flat place. Hard after a long day; and then the going in the snow (if there is snow) off the river is also tough. Once home, though, we stay with villagers there with warm welcome, if we are lucky to get Jeep, we will move to Zangla it is 2 hours drive from Sarak do.

9 Rest Day in Zangla.
Not a hard day if there is a trail, but in fresh snow, it may be. We descend and cross the Zanskar, walking on plateau, depend on snow conditions, we either stay at Pidmo or Hanumil with local families.

10 – Rest Day in Zangla
We have time to visit and move around Zangla.

11- 17 on the way back to chilling.
The same way back? Surprise ? Well, technically yes we are same way back. In fact the Chadar changes by the minutes and hours, and the colors and perspectives all change, and yes, it is quicker downhill. We camp in different places, and hope to visit another ancient monastery, if conditions allow. We do know that the Chadar will be as challenging on the return trip. We do know we have plenty of time for those problems, and we do know that Uncle Angchuk and his jeeps will be waiting for us when we climb stiffly off the ice, the Chadar, one of the great adventures done! And way back to home..
Farewell and Cheers !!

Day 18.. Back to home

Bye Bye to Tiny kingdom in Himalaya

Facilities for this expatiation:

Hotels in Leh Airport transfers Heated Hotels in Leh Accommodation with local families in Zanskar

Local departure tax / permit
Group transportation by private vehicle

Expedition-style trek:

Highly experienced guides

Highly experienced and professionally porters

All meals and hot drinks; superb Asian vegetarian food Roomy sleeping and heated dining tent

Facilities Excluded:

Personal insurance,

Personal equipment rental,
Alcohol and soft drinks, Laundry, tipping and other items of a personal nature

Cost - US $2750 (Delhi-Trek-Delhi)

Perfect Walk on ICE

Perfect Walk on ICE, originally uploaded by manisholiday.

Chadar Expedition 2009 (Jan)